This three-day route spirals out from Nagano City into the surrounding valleys and castle towns, balancing the great pilgrimage temple and the world-famous monkeys with quieter rewards: Hokusai's last paintings, a mythic cedar shrine, samurai relics and timeless hot springs. Each day clusters geographically to keep travel smooth and the rhythm unhurried.

Begin at Zenko-ji, walking the pitch-black passage beneath the main hall in search of the key to paradise, then pick up oyaki dumplings from one of the shops near the temple grounds for a warming mid-morning snack. Head north by bus to Yudanaka, then walk the forest trail into Jigokudani to watch wild macaques soak in steaming pools against the snow. Settle into Shibu Onsen for the evening, donning yukata to wander the stone lanes and try the circuit of nine little public baths before dinner at your inn.

Take the Nagaden line to Obuse and spend the morning at the Hokusai-kan, admiring the rare ceiling paintings and hand-scrolls the master created in his final years, then browse the lanes for chestnut sweets and quiet gardens. In the afternoon, return toward Nagano and catch a bus up to Togakushi, walking the two-kilometre approach to the inner shrine beneath the towering avenue of ancient cedars. The mountain air and myth-soaked stillness make a perfect counterpoint to the morning's art and sweetness.

Head south by bus to Matsushiro, exploring the Sanada clan's castle ruins, samurai residences and the old domain school, then descend into the vast wartime tunnel complex that runs beneath the town. Continue by train to Bessho Onsen, the 'Kamakura of Shinshu', to see the octagonal three-storey pagoda at Anraku-ji and soak in the gentle ancient waters. The day moves from martial history to quiet temple grace, ending in one of the region's most understated spas.
Nagano City is the practical hub, with easy access to Zenko-ji on your doorstep and direct buses or trains to every corner of the itinerary. For a more atmospheric night, stay in Shibu Onsen to experience the onsen-town ritual firsthand.
Nagano Station is the anchor: local buses reach Zenko-ji, Togakushi and Matsushiro; the Nagaden line runs to Obuse and Yudanaka (for the monkeys and Shibu Onsen); the Ueda Dentetsu line connects to Bessho Onsen. A rental car opens up the mountain routes, but public transport covers the core circuit reliably.
Winter transforms the region — the snow monkeys are at their most photogenic, Shibu Onsen and Nozawa Onsen glow with steam, and the mountains wear deep snow. Autumn brings fiery colour to the Togakushi cedars and temple precincts.
Authentic pieces made near here — learn the story, then bring one home.
Mino Ware
美濃焼 · Toki, Gifu
Shizuoka Tea
静岡茶 · Shizuoka
Tokoname Ware
常滑焼 · Tokoname, Aichi
Nishio Matcha
西尾抹茶 · Nishio, Aichi
Seto Ware
瀬戸焼 · Seto, Aichi
Mino Washi
美濃和紙 · Mino, Gifu
Seki Blades
関の刃物 · Seki, Gifu
Suruga Bambooware
駿河竹千筋細工 · Shizuoka