This route moves in concentric circles from the castle heart of Matsuyama out to the onsen and temple quarter of Dōgo, then further still to a tiny seaside station where the railway meets the Inland Sea. Each day deepens your encounter with the city's layered identity—feudal, literary, devotional, and quietly poetic. The logic is geographic: central Matsuyama first, then Dōgo's compact cluster of bath and shrine and temple, and finally a contemplative day trip along the coast.

Begin at Matsuyama Castle, taking the ropeway from Ōkaidō to the hilltop keep for sweeping views over the Inland Sea and a rare walk through authentic feudal architecture. Descend to the unexpected Bansui-sō Villa on the castle slopes, where a 1922 French château sits incongruously among the pines. Lunch on taimeshi in the city centre—sea bream and rice simmered together in the Dōgo style, the grains sweet with broth. Spend the afternoon wandering Ōkaidō, then catch the cheerful Botchan Ressha tram for a ride through the city with a toot of steam, a nod to Sōseki's novel and Matsuyama's literary soul.

Start early at Dōgo Onsen Honkan, the grand 1894 bathhouse with tiered roofs and latticed windows that inspired 'Spirited Away', and soak in one of Japan's oldest hot springs. Climb the long stone stair to Isaniwa Shrine, a vermilion Hachiman hall watching over the onsen quarter from its green hillside perch. Walk or take a bus to Ishite-ji, temple 51 of the Shikoku pilgrimage, where white-vested henro pass beneath a National Treasure gate and incense hangs thick in the courtyards. In the afternoon, stroll through Dōgo Park, the soft earthworks of old Yuzuki Castle now a gentle green space beloved in cherry season, before returning to the onsen district for an evening bath.

Take the JR Yosan Line west from Matsuyama to Shimonada Station, an unmanned seaside halt where a single platform sits right by the water with no ceremony at all. Linger for the light and the quiet—photographers love this spot at sunset, when the rails meet the waves in perfect simplicity. Return to Matsuyama in the late afternoon, and spend your final evening in Dōgo, perhaps a last soak at the Honkan or a wander through the onsen-town lanes as the lamps come on.
Dōgo
The Iyotetsu tram network is your friend: take the tram to Dōgo Onsen for the bathhouse quarter, the ropeway from Ōkaidō for the castle, and the JR Yosan Line for the seaside day trip to Shimonada.
Cherry-blossom season lights up the castle and Dōgo Park; sunset is the magic hour at Shimonada Station.
Authentic pieces made near here — learn the story, then bring one home.
Awa Indigo
阿波藍 · Tokushima
Tobe Ware
砥部焼 · Tobe, Ehime
Tosa Washi
土佐和紙 · Ino, Kōchi
Marugame Round Fans
丸亀うちわ · Marugame, Kagawa
Tosa Blades
土佐打刃物 · Kami, Kochi